24 Hours: Lawrence

Monocle, October 2013

“People shouldn’t come away from a brunch saying, ‘Well, that was interesting,’’’ says Ethan Wills, co-owner of Lawrence. “It’s not a cerebral meal. It should be comforting and indulgent.” Wills knows this well: his bustling, British-accented brunch mecca in the Le Plateau district has won loyal fans for its comfort classics, such as chocolate-stuffed doughnuts and cold-smoked trout. There’s also the peerless full English breakfast, featuring bacon, sausage and black pudding, all made from scratch by UK-bred chef and co-owner Marc Cohen. Home chefs keen to recreate Cohen’s decadent dishes have welcomed Boucherie Lawrence, a sister butcher shop that opened this summer, but the restaurant’s brunch-time queues remain as thick as ever. Clearly, Montrealers understand that brunch isn’t merely a meal; it’s an event.

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