Ones to Watch: London Fashion Week, September 23, 2010

E. Tautz
The Story: The 143-year-old Savile Row fashion house—beloved by rakes from Winston Churchill to Cary Grant—has been revived by Edinburgh-born designer Patrick Grant.
The Collection: Grant calls it “the crumpled English summertime look,” but blazers, knits and lightweight trousers are still impeccablely tailored.
The Purchase: Chunky, summer sweater with a flat shawl collar.

Christopher Raeburn
The Story: After graduating from London’s Royal College of Arts in 2008, Raeburn found quick recognition, presenting his collection of utilitarian, military-inspired outerwear, first at the Imperial War Museum, and then during London Design Week.

The Collection: Raeburn sticks to his roots and turns military surplus parachute nylon—and deadstock rubberized cotton, and Tyvek—into sturdy, detailed parkas and slickers.

The Purchase: Olive green foldable windbreaker.

Baartmans and Siegel
The Story: Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel, both London College of Fashion grads, met while interning at Viktor & Rolf. One collection in, they’ve already collaborated with Fur Lab and shoemaker Grenson.

The Collection: An eminently wearable collection of knits, shirts and suits made in Britain with Swiss fabrics.

The Purchase: Textured gray blazer.

A. Sauvage
The Story: Twenty-seven year-old Adrien Sauvage—stylist, fashion photographer, basketball player—launched his debut collection, This Is Not a Suit, in early 2010, and ironically demonstrated his strong tailoring skills.

The Collection: Slim—not super-skinny—suits with opulent details, like horn buttons and rope shoulders.

The Purchase: Double-breasted flannel-cashmere suit.

Hardy Amies
The Story: The dandy spirit of Amies—the Savile Row master tailor who, in 1964, published The ABC of Men’s Fashion—endures under the creative direction of Oliver Benjamin.

The Collection: City style visits the country in unstructured suits and bright accessories.

The Purchase: Cashmere/linen/silk blend single-breasted suit in gold and cream herringbone.

Mr Hare
The Story: Marc Hare designed surf wear, ran a fashion boutique, and did marketing for Doc Martens before launching his line of Italian-made shoes in 2008.

The Collection: Brogues, loafers, and toecaps receive subtle tweaks via unlikely materials, from ostrich to surprisingly resilient salmon skin.

The Purchase: Navy and cream spectators.

Topman Design
The Story: With 175-plus stores worldwide, Topman isn’t merely a mega-retailer; it’s also a mega-design house.

The Collection: Mods-meet-Belgian fashion students in this collection of slim-fitting suits and high-waisted, baggy shorts.

The Purchase: Cotton khaki zip jacket.

Carolyn Massey
The Story: Massey, a frequent Topman collaborator, won the British Fashion Council’s inaugural NEWGEN MEN award following her 2006 launch.
The Collection: Classic tailoring meets contemporary cool in cuffed shorts, waxed cotton anoraks, and bulky leather rucksack—complete with detachable “doctor’s bag.”

The Purchase: Periwinkle anorak.

D. Gnak by Kang D.
The Story: Korean-born, Parsons educated designer Kang Dong-Jun showed in Seoul, New York and L.A. before debuting this season in London.

The Collection: Staples are playfully reconstructed; lapels and sleeves get slashed and dress pants come with drawstrings.

The Purchase: Single-pleat charcoal trousers and 3/4 sleeve shirt.

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